Et c’est parti.

It’s a dark, mild night. My body feels snug and warm in 6 layers of professional all-weather gear.

Wednesday, February 28th, 2024, 11:28 PM.

This is my first Vampire Watch (11 to 3PM) of many more to come. The moon is playing peek-a-boo with the clouds, and I feel all bright-eyed and bushy tailed. We are moving south along the Baja Panhandle, making sure to keep enough distance between O2 and the Mexican coast. We have completely cleared out of Mexico, and we don’t want to get boarded by nervous coastguards patrolling their territorial waters, looking for bad guys. Or for visa-less gringos. We are going south before turning west to avoid too strong of a blow that is about to form out there.


There’s a spot near Ensenada called La Bufadora, ‘bufar” meaning “to hiss and growl like a wild cat”.  There people gather to marvel at the power of crashing waves shooting meters high through a couple of blowholes. In the open ocean, waves roam freely, uninhibited by obstacles. That’s why we always feel safer mid-ocean rather than near a rocky coast. Unless the waves build up too high and collide with each other of course, or come slamming sideways onto our hulls as is often the case. Then, it’s our cat O2 who starts hissing & growling. But not tonight. Tonight, we relish the luxury of an ocean in slow motion.

La Bufadora .

Only problem is that our perfect 15-knot wind which was blowing earlier on has now shifted from 150 degrees behind to 70 degrees starboard and has all but died down. As I am burning the midnight oil, O2 is burning some diesel. Diesel which is meant for the doldrums.

Thursday, February 29th, 2024, 11:30 PM.

Marc & Serena: we will meet again when we get there. “There” being the port of Atuona on the Island of Hiva Oa, Marquesas.

It’s been 37 hours and 189 nautical miles since we waved goodbye to Mark & Serena, who cast off our lines amid last minute chores on SV Pegasus, their 53-foot monohull. They’ll likely catch up in a couple of days. Our journey so far has been slow, at an average speed of a mere 5 knots. Slow, but oh so steady and comfortable thanks to our wing-to-wing set-up on a broad reach run. Engines silenced, a bonus day from the leap year, dolphins paying us a visit, blog issues solved (we got locked out of our own blog and it took several phone calls and many anxious attempts to get back in), the weather getting warmer by the hour, all contribute to the good cheer onboard O2. Just another 300 miles down South and we can make our right turn to the West and into the deep blue.

This is our wing-to-wing set up. The brand-new and awfully white code zero sail on the left in conjunction with our good old genoa sail on the right rendered an average speed of 6 knots in a light wind between 11 and 15 knots these last 8 hours. Very satisfying indeed.

20 comments on “Et c’est parti.”

  1. Jose Suarez says:

    Hi Luc and Viviane
    Just wanted to say hello and wish you good sailing. Sorry I didn’t get to see you the last day.
    I returned to Arizona last Saturday leaving PIlar at Coral. Getting ready to fly out to Uruguay next week. All is well. Stay in touch
    Cheers!!! Jose

    1. Viv says:

      Hi Jose, it was so nice meeting you at Soriana😁. We will keep you posted. Enjoy your trip. All is well over here.

  2. Joost says:

    We prijzen de heilige Elon M. die ons toelaat jullie avonturen nu ook live te volgen. Zo blijft ge “always on our mind”, zelfs in die mate dat ik vannacht droomde dat Captain Luc een flinke ruk aan het roer gaf en sprak “Ik wil toch ook eens gaan kijken op die Paaseilanden”. Koers houden !

    1. Viv says:

      Echt wel zeg! Daarnet zelfs een videocall met mijn broer en ik heb moeten de camera op de omgeving richten om hem te doen geloven dat we NIET in een haven lagen. We sjezen hier goed vooruit momenteel. Maar Paaseiland kruisen we niet. Captain Luc is wel zeer vereerd.

  3. Annette Shulman says:

    You are absolutely amazing in your bravery, wit and love for sailing! Thank you for keeping us informed about your adventures! Enjoy! Hugs!

    1. Viv says:

      Hugs to you and Alex, too! We will keep you posted.

  4. Doreen says:

    Met de juiste wind in de zeilen lukt het wel. 👌

    1. Luc says:

      Laten we inderdaad optimistisch blijven. Bedankt.

  5. Frank Janssens says:

    Wow , die eerste stappen moeten spannend zijn. Maar de zon komt op neem ik aan en dan your captain het overnemen. Hou het roer op koers!!

    1. Luc says:

      Inderdaad wel spannend om er zo ineens weer in te vliegen.
      Trouwens, mijn shift start om 03am, en eindigt om 07am (als de zon opgekomen is).

  6. Klasja says:

    Bon voyage!! 😘

    1. Luc says:

      Bedankt Klasja, of moet ik merci zeggen. Het zal wennen zijn om terug Frans te spreken na al die tijd.

  7. Nicole Meul says:

    Goede vaart!😘👍

    1. Luc says:

      Bedankt Nicole.

  8. Jan Verschaeren JokerIII says:

    Fair winds!!!
    Veel succes en geniet van dit langste stukje ooit!!!

    1. Luc says:

      Het begin is in elk geval al relax, en de komende dagen zitten ook goed. We hebben bewust de sterke windzone vermeden, zodat het aangenaam blijft.

  9. Natascha Dirinck says:

    And off you go ! Blijf vooral bright-eyed and bushy tailed and stay away from La Bufadora en alles wat er wat op lijkt 😉

    1. Viv says:

      Haha Natascha, momenteel is het dus echt wat zeilers noemen “champagne sailing”. Ik blijf het jammer vinden dat jullie hoofdzakelijk “Moscow Mule on the rocks sailing” hebben moeten meemaken. Next time!

  10. Claire says:

    👏👏👏👏
    With you in spirit. All the way x

    1. Viv says:

      That’s good to know Claire. Because a long way it is.

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