Wahaka!

Seven passengers, 1 pilot and the Sierra Madre, that’s how we started on our 8 day expedition into the interior from the quaint international AirPort of Huatulco. A smooth touch down at Oaxaca Ciudad a mere 30 minutes and dozens of pics later and we were ready to paint the town red. 

Rio profundo.

Oaxaca doesn’t need extra paint. It is a color explosion and an absolute tourist delight. It also has a pleasant pre-global-warming temperature which caused My Captain to grab for his fleece in the evening and for a hot xocolatl at noon. We effortless shifted into our best sightseeing mode and enjoyed the hedonistic rebellious marvel that Oaxaca Ciudad is today.

Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán: 1572-1731
Zapata vive!
Gay interpretation of the traditional Guelaguetza. They called it “Gaylaguetza”.
Love in different times: Frida and Diego!

We even waited in an impressive queue for 1,5 hours before we were allowed in to lay eyes on the Zapotec ruins of Monte Alban, dated 700 AD. The color red gets a whole different meaning here. As we were taking in the peaceful scene, the descriptions at each structure told a rather gruesome story of the rule by terror of the few over the many. With ceremonial altars meant for human sacrifice galore, gory images of severed heads, hearts & male genitals started to invade our brain in an “Apocalypto” kind of way.

Stylized rendering of blood collection after the cutting off of private parts.
Cartoon art inspired by Frida Kahlo’s self-portrait is as Oaxacan as you can get.

High time to purify the mind and soul. So off we went into the mountains. Our 4 day stay in the cabañas of the Sierra Norte brought the solace we were looking for. The woods were filled with the strangest of bromeliads and the cutest of wild flowers. There was even a snake ! The views were soul soothing.

Diego our 18 year old guide explained that the only way to meet a partner was during one of the many fiestas,since the 200 people of his own village are all related. Because of Covid, fiestas have been cancelled until further notice. But he has high hopes: the group of vaccinated people is steadily growing.
After the pueblo Mágico of Capulálpam, we visited Lachatao, one of the 8 villages of the totally autonomous and independent Pueblos Mancomunados. There are no political parties and the whole village decides how to proceed. They had just openend up again after being closed down for over a year in order to keep Covid out. They were considering going into lockdown again because of the Delta variant.
The old aquaduct that powered the grinding wheel used in the process of extracting the gold and silver from the mined ore. Diego explained that religion was used to keep the working people into submission. That’s why the mines all carried names of Catholic Saints. The people are no longer in submission.
Cattle is not really “free range”, as their front legs are tied together so that they cannot roam too far away. The calves are free to frolic about though. And the milk is very tasty.
Pleasant encounters with fellow travelers.
Some wild orchids were flowering.
Regina has a kitchen with a view. She taught us how to prepare delicious salsas.

My Captain is not so much into beans.

Part of the program included an energetic cleanse in the ritual medicinal center of the village of Capulálpam. The cleanse involved incantations, incense, 7 different fragrant plants, 1 egg and aguardiente. 

After having rolled the egg all over our body, it was broken in a glass of water where the yolk and egg-white created a pattern. The reading of that pattern told me to fret less and told My Captain some interesting truths. But one thing was egg-clear for the both of us: in order to reach a higher level of purification , we would definitely need some additional sessions. 

Maybe it was because we chose to skip the final step of the ritual: the spitting of aguardiente on our face and body. From behind her facemask, the mistress of ceremony seriously offered us the choice to go ahead with it or not. We politely declined.

My Captain’s egg is on the left.

And now we are back on O2. We’ve just realized that the yellow trimaran which is docked one pontoon behind us belongs to Architectes de l’urgence. I’m writing this post in the company of the harbor cat who is trying to seduce me. I cannot allow it. I know that if I acknowledge her she will follow me on board and I won’t have the heart to shoo her away.

And “away” we have to go.

8 comments on “Wahaka!”

  1. MARC DE RUYTE says:

    We beleven jullie fantastisch avontuur een klein beetje mee dankzij deze prachtige foto’s met commentaar.
    Geniet verder van deze unieke ervaring , hou het veilig .
    Intussen kijken we uit naar het vervolg .

    1. Viv says:

      We hebben ook gehoord dat er een familie zeilvakantie zit aan te komen.Dat zal ook genieten zijn !

  2. Stefanie Schreyen says:

    Wat een prachtige beelden! Dank om ons helemaal mee te nemen in jullie belevenissen en te laten mee genieten!

    1. Viv says:

      We voelen ons echt geprivilegieerd. Dat wel. Alhoewel we meer en meer beseffen dat vluchten moeilijker en moeilijker zal worden. Carpe diem dus.

  3. Carine Lyssens says:

    Weeral een mooi avontuur! Bovenop alles wat jullie al gezien en beleefd hebben. Al kon die zuivering beter he Viv😂. Maar we worden elke keer weer beloond met mooie verhalen , wrede geschiedenissen en prachtige beelden . Bedankt daarvoor 👌xxx
    Reis veilig verder met je kapitein

    1. Viv says:

      Álle Mexicanen die we tot nu toe ontmoet hebben, zijn schatten van mensen. Que le vaya bien, is hun afscheid. Het gaat je goed. Altijd van harte onze wens terug.

  4. Marianne says:

    WoW, I like Youri adventures very much : it makes me hungry for New trips all over the world.Inbetween my daughter and famiy learn to love the world of sailing in croatie ;}

    1. Viv says:

      Croatië! Daar hebben we al veel enthousiaste verhalen over gehoord. Zal de max zijn.

Comments are closed.