Passage to New Zealand, part 1: the “parking lot”.

Inside North Minerva Reef, aka the “parking lot”.
My Captain getting ready to go up the mast to temporarily fix the suspension block. Again.

It was Thursday, October 11th, 2024, at 7:15 AM when O2 swept into the South Pacific’s parking lot, known as North Minerva Reef. The first few days of our passage had been a joyous beam-to-broad reach sail, averaging 7.5 knots. Until the suspension block for the Parasailor broke—again. This forced us to rely on motor sailing for the next 130 miles, pushing hard to reach the reef before the approaching tropical front closed in on us, while we were still vulnerable and out on the open ocean. But we made it inside in time!

This time he took a picture from up above, since conditions were calm.
O2’s approach into the lagoon of the perfect circle that is North Minerva Reef where you can see sailing vessels already anchored in the bottom right corner. In the old days, this was uncharted territory and many a ship got wrecked on the reef.

North and South Minerva Reefs are quite a wondrous phenomenon. They vanish beneath the waves at high tide, lying smack in the middle of the vast ocean where you’d least expect them to be. In the old days, they wrecked many a ship, including the 1829 Australian whaling ship Minerva, which gave the South & North reefs their name. Over the years, Fiji, Tonga, and even an eccentric American real estate millionaire have all quarrelled over who would plant their flag on these reefs. In the end, Tonga won. Or perhaps, it’s the Pacific itself that is truly winning. It certainly seems like the ocean is getting ready to reclaim them any day now. But to us and the six other sailing vessels that are “parked” here at the moment, it is a beautiful and unique safe haven, and a great place to time the second and final leg of our passage to New Zealand.

And our timing cannot be off. The steady trade winds have given way to a conveyor belt of alternating high and low-pressure systems, rolling in from Australia and the Tasman Sea over New Zealand every 5 to 10 days. When the low arrives, the entire area lights up red on the weather charts—red as in 30+ knot adverse winds and high waves. When the high settles, the area turns all blue and windless. So, we are biding our time here in North Minerva, closely monitoring 6-day forecasts, the time we need to reach New Zealand. And, of course, we have our weather router Kris Parker in Florida, standing by our side with his expert advice.

This is the situation for Tuesday, October 15th. Better stay put for a while. We were also immensely relieved to hear that Milton—the Atlantic hurricane of the century—had spared our weather router Chris Parker and his team.
Chris Parker and team are okay. Florida not so much.

While “parked” at North Minerva, we completed the biosecurity requirements for clearing in. This involved pressure washing our hiking boots as well as the slimy bottom of our dinghy- we forgot about that while on the hard in Neiafu’s boatyard. It also involved the solemn rite of casting back into the ocean our lovingly curated collection of corals and shells that we had gathered from different shores over the past years.

I didn’t like it one bit, but the Kiwis take their biosecurity measures very seriously. So, I grudgingly complied as far as the corals and clams were concerned. I’m hoping they’ll let me keep the sea urchin skeleton aka “ sand dollar”, the pencil sea urchin aubergine coloured spines and the small cowrie shells, which I hold dear as our Ocean Goddess Yemayá protection charms.

To quote Lhasa de Sela in her superb song “La Frontera”, “Es el viento que nos manda.”

Today, Sunday October 13th, we have received our orders from both the weather forecast programs and Chris Parker that it is time to say goodbye to Minerva Reef and get going in the general direction of the New Zealand border, our last “frontera” for this sailing season. We certainly don’t want to get caught like a sitting duck in gale force winds with thunder & lightning all around us, which we always find very very frightening indeed. Sea legend has it that catamaran masts are most prone to receive a direct lightning hit, which is why monohulls prefer to anchor closely by. So far we have been spared, and we plan to keep it that way.

So, after one last inspection of our “scum” free hull, of which the proof has been taken for bio security agents to inspect on arrival, and off we go. O2 is ready and eager. And so are we.

The scratches we had to patch up with white stuff. Otherwise, she’s still clean as a whistle. Speed will be up!

10 comments on “Passage to New Zealand, part 1: the “parking lot”.”

  1. Lucrèce says:

    Een veilige reis en laatste tocht. Hopelijk zien we elkaar als jullie terug aan wal zijn in België

    1. Viv says:

      Bedankt Lucrèce! Tis een wilde tocht over woeste zeeën. België zit er dit seizoen niet in. Eind 2025 wel. Maar eerst in Nieuw-Zeeland geraken.

  2. Joel Fox says:

    We met you out on the reef the day before departure. I hope you enjoyed the snorkeling- we certainly did.
    We are now just north of you en route to NZ and as a monohull we will never catch up. See you in Opua
    Safe travels

    1. Viv says:

      Oh hi there guys, Pixie & Celestina, right? How is it going? Quite the ride so far. In Opua we will certainly celebrate. See you!

  3. Nina says:

    I hope the remaining passage went well! Can’t wait for the next installment.

    How upsetting about the shells, I had heard about that but I wasn’t sure where they drew the line.

    We’re here at the Annapolis sailboat Show, working the Panama posse booth and miss you! Oka

    1. Viv says:

      Congratulations on the Fishing while Cruising seminar. On this passage, we Will once more try our luck.

  4. Jan Verschaeren says:

    Zo jammer van de mooie collectie schelpjes 😳.
    Goede overtocht!!

    1. Viv says:

      Maar in Fiji zullen we weer een nieuwe verzameling beginnen!

  5. Natascha says:

    Echt wel héél bijzonder zo’n parking in het midden van de oceaan! Have a safe passage to New Zealand!

    1. Viv says:

      En we zijn vertrokken. We vinden het zelf weer spannend.

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