“Pole pole”.

Satellite view of O2 anchored in Deep Cove, starting point for our tramp to Cape Brett.

According to the New Zealand Herald, searches for “How do I move to New Zealand” have recently surged—a sentiment we can completely relate to. We’ve left behind the world of woes and retreated into the heart of the New Zealand bush, where we are once again immersed in a soothing palette of greens and blues. We have been “tramping” all over the place with the hike from Deep Cove Anchorage all the way to the lighthouse on Cape Brett as an absolute highlight. The trail smelled of sweet vanilla from the blooming cabbage trees, with birds aplenty, chirping and flitting through the foliage.

Rounding Cape Brett with O2. Its famous lighthouse is still operating and has done so since 1910.

It is spring, and we are still ahead of the summer holiday rush. So, we do appreciate the rare encounters we have with fellow boaters, especially when their boat is named Pole pole, Swahili for “slowly slowly”. Intrigued, we checked them out and gathered over a bottle of wine, reminiscing about the good old times in Africa while having a hell of a good time in the NZ sun.

Meet Jenny from Kenya and Rowan from South-Africa. They travel on their sailing catamaran , Pole pole and can maintain an average speed of 15 knots – twice as fast as O2. Not “pole pole” at all.

The only downside to it still being spring is the water temperature. Crystal-clear seas at 17 degrees are about 5 degrees too cold for a snorkel. But slowly, slowly we are getting there. By December, it should be feasible. That’s when our house photographer will be joining us again. The underwater scenery is considered top notch, with the marine reserve around Poor Knights Islands ranked among the top five dive sites in the world. So, we took a quick sail to check it out from the water, and the place did not disappoint. Shoals of fish lit up the surface, a lone turtle surfaced, and a seal was napping onshore—very promising indeed. We decided not to stay the night, though, as a lee shore wind was picking up, and pushing us uncomfortably close to the imposing cliffs. So, up with the anchor. That’s when we discovered we had lost our port side propeller.

Glassy ocean and totally wind still on our way to the marine reserve of Poor Knights Islands. We still had two propellers pushing us along.
O2 anchored deep on a rocky lee shore. When the wind picked up, we chose to get out. That’s when we discovered the port side propeller was gone.
Hoisting our Code Zero sail is quite a cumbersome chore.

During our four-hour sail to Marsden Cove Marina to get a new propeller installed, we had plenty of time to get organized. Our broker in Oostende texted us the serial number for the spare part. A local Volvo Penta mechanic promised that he would contact the Australian dealer network first thing on Monday to enquire about that new propeller, as one wasn’t available in all of New Zealand.

So, we frantically started Googling ourselves—and with great success! Not only did we find the right propeller in Seattle ready for immediate shipment to New Zealand, but our brother, who lives in Seattle and is set to join us for a holiday in just a few days, sprang into action. He jumped in his car, picked up the propeller, and packed it alongside the rest of his luggage. We are very much looking forward to get it all sorted out. Maneuvering a catamaran in and out of anchorages, marinas, and narrow passages on a single engine is quite a challenge. To turn right, my Captain has to make a full 360-degree turn to the left. All went smoothly until we reached Marsden Cove Marina near Whangārei. A combination of speed—necessary to keep the boat in control—and an overly eager dock hand who pulled the bow with a sudden jerk to the edge of the dock with the mooring line resulted in a rather spectacular entry. The tip of the bow “kissed” the dock passionately enough to rattle My Captain’s nerves and send kitchen drawers flying out of the cabinets. But O2 survived unharmed with just a minor skid mark- nothing a little polishing can’t fix. The universe, with its notorious love of irony, had placed a cargo ship right next to the entrance channel to Marsden Cove Marina —bearing the name “Propel Glory” and then proceeded to send a storm to Seattle which has caused our brother’s flight to be delayed by 24 hours and our necessary haul-out by a week. Our brother arrived yesterday and so did the propeller. Everything is going to be alright. In a “Pole Pole Power” kind of way.

The Propel Glory under loaded skies, welcoming us in, as she is loading the NZ logs. Forestry and wood processing has an annual gross income of $6,6 billion.
Isn’t it a beauty? Another large chunck gone from the rapidly dwindling savings account, though.

6 comments on ““Pole pole”.”

  1. Nina says:

    Wow! The timing for your brother coming couldn’t have been better. Really, it’s not often that you have someone planning to visit you that far away. That can bring such an essential part! So glad that things are under control. Always good reading your blogs!

    1. Viv says:

      You have no idea how grateful we are. The pampering of our brother knows no limits!

  2. Ferket Christine says:

    Dag Luc en Viv, wat een prachtige boodschap is dit! Jullie hadden wel pech maar de natuur maakt daar wel voor op. Zo mooi! Viv, zoals jij het schrijft is het bijna of ik de geur ook meekrijg. Moet heerlijk zijn! Gelukkig zijn jullie bijna verlost van de pech. Gelukkig was dat niet op volle zee. Ik denk te verstaan dat Ramses ook op weg is naar jullie. Dan kunnen jullie NZ ontdekken onderwater. Dat zal waarschijnlijk ook de moeite waard zijn. Leuk dat jullie dat koppel leren kennen hebt. Echt Afrikaans: Kenia en Zuid-Afrika. Ik moet het jullie niet zeggen want jullie zullen wel weten hoe gelukkig je bent om dit mee te maken.
    Viv, ik wil je nog een gelukkige verjaardag toewensen. Geniet zoveel je kunt!
    Hier gaat alles maar op zijn Belgisch en dinsdag is er kans op wat sneeuw.
    Dit was zo een toffe mail, echt bedankt. Dit maakt mijn weekend dubbel en dik! Vele lieve groeten van mij. Ik voel mij wat verbonden met jullie en dat is zo fijn!
    Let goed op jullie zelf, ik kijk al uit naar een nieuw verslag.
    Een prachtige propeller! Lief voor jullie!

    1. Viv says:

      Bedankt Chris. We zijn op leuke uitstap met Marc. Tot een volgende.

  3. Devisme Thierry says:

    Bonjour, je vous suis depuis peu et j’aime bien ce nouveau rendez-vous car la qualité de votre prose rend le récit très agréable à lire.
    Merci de nous faire partager votre aventure et vos découvertes.

    1. Viv says:

      Êtes-vous Thierry, qui navigue sur l’Oceanya ?

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