Ocean Odyssey 20 001.

For the last 2 years, we’ve been exploring miles and miles of wild Pacific beaches from Panama to Alaska. Only now have we succeeded in adding some sand dollars to our treasure chest of shells. 

Our Canadian dollars on the other hand, we have left behind in Tofino.

We arrived in Tofino at the same time the smoke from yet another wildfire did. Fortunately, it only took 2 days for the skies to clear and for us to stop with the coughing. That’s when Tofino seduced us with bohemian sophistication, and we willingly gave in. 

The Pointe Restaurant at the Wickaninnish Inn enquired whether perhaps we were booking a table for a special occasion? Yes, indeed we were. Reaching 20 000 nautical miles at sea with O2 and her crew still intact deserved a celebration. But we made it easy on them and played along by putting the blame for this splurge on our 31st wedding anniversary, which also happened to be true. Another kind of journey altogether, and one we managed to survive pretty much unscathed as well. 

A third reason for our budget busting decadent dining extravaganza were My Captain’s recent technical interventions. He not only rewired a suddenly moribund battery bank back to life in the middle of the night, he also ingeniously unclogged the water maker without so much as putting a toe into the freezing water. The unclogging involved a broom, a full scuba diving tank used as a compressor and a diagnostic underwater stethoscope which clearly demonstrated that the water maker was choking on a sucked in overload of green stuff. Reasons a plenty to celebrate in a “smart casual” way, as was requested by the venue. We felt very posh.

Exquisite food in exquisite surroundings is just one of the many treats Tofino has to offer. There are also the forest hikes, the beaches with beach huts built from driftwood, the surfers’ vibe, the whales, the hot springs, the boutiques, the First Nation culture, and….. the electric bikes!

There is a 35 km bike lane through the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve from Tofino to Ucluelet. It is inhabited by cougars, wolves and bears according to the many heads-up signs by the side of the bike lane. By now we know this isn’t just Canadian marketing to lure in wildlife fanatics like us. This is a genuine warning to tread lightly through the woods. 

So, off we went, once again equipped with a can of bear spray and some sing-alongs. There wasn’t a single mammal in sight. However, still moist, runny blackberry bear poop deposited at various strategic spots along the way kept us alert. Signs reminded us to slow down, lest we triggered Winnie-the-Pooh’s hunting instinct. Apparently, that’s a thing. And the same goes for jogging. 

We have now reached Ucluelet, “Ukee” according to the non-indigenous locals who have a real hard time reading & pronouncing the First Nation words and names. As do we.  Another more major thing we are struggling with now is that fickle Integrel battery charging system of ours. It started acting up over a year ago and went into a full blown crisis now, despite My Captain’s earlier intervention. The entire battery bank and Integrel software system are supposed to be exchanged for a brand-new upgrade once we enter the USA. Where exactly in the USA this boat-life-saving replacement will take place is still for the mother company in London to decide upon. For the time being, we write e-mails and leave messages on answering machines. One thing is certain: we have to reach San Diego by the end of September if we don’t want to get caught in an autumn storm. September is notorious for a sudden weather change on the North American West Coast.

It all boils down to inadequate communication. When the batteries are fully loaded, the system claims that they are running dangerously low and consequently proceeds to shut everything down. And by “everything” we also mean the electric cook top. A thing which clearly cannot be tolerated. That’s the reason why we are docked in Ukee’s Small Craft Harbor, hooked up to their shore power. Thank God the shore power overrules the cranky boat system and gives us some slack to figure things out before crossing into the USA. And now that the cook top is fully functioning again, I mainly busy myself by preparing hot comfort food for the both of us. It is badly needed.