The Traveling Foodies.

We have been spoiled rotten by our brother (in law) and niece the past couple of weeks. While we were acting busy with O2 and all things sailing, they could be found in O2’s kitchen, preparing another one of their fabulous recipes. 

All things considered, they adapted to the heat and to our nomadic lifestyle amazingly well. All they needed were 2 days of acclimatization in the mountains in a Hacienda in San Sebastian del Oeste and they were up and ready to brave the Pacific Ocean. So, after a quad drive to the mountain top, a lunch with a view, a taste of home brew raicilla, and a fancy margarita in the local cocktail bar, off we (motor) sailed to Mazatlán. With a bilge stacked with wine and both the fridge and freezer topped up to the rim, we were fully prepared for whatever came our way.

Isla Isabela was a memorable stop. We shared the anchorage with 3 other sailing vessels. SV Cara Mia, SV Barboleta and SV Traveler were on their way down as we were on our way up. And all of us were anchored there to gape in wonder at the birds, which was nothing less than a National Geographic experience for beginners.

Isla Isabela is an international sanctuary for blue footed boobies and thousands of frigate birds. There are walking trails through dense shrubbery splattered white with guano which lead you right up to their nesting spots. The penetrating smell of guano combined with the powerful woosh of flapping wings close overhead and the shrill shrieks of big birds who were largely indifferent to our presence created an eerie vibe of what the natural life must have been like pre -Adam and Eve. Were it not for plastic trash which laid scattered along the water line.

We were also lucky enough to arrive at the height of the mating season. This significantly added color to the scene. To attract the female’s attention, the males puff out their red neck pouch to a sometimes-astonishing size. We stood and watched in awe as a multitude of male frigate birds started showing off their bright red balloons amongst the vibrant green of the bush. All of this and more on the very day I was born all these years ago. It was quite the party.

Back on O2, we had the privilege of waving back at the first humpback whales of the season who leisurely came spouting by close enough to hear them snort. They greeted us with elegantly raised flukes which then disappeared again below the surface in slow motion

In Mazatlán we rented a car to go visit Durango. I humbly admit that in my enthusiasm I underestimated the driving distance. In my manic mind Durango had reached epic proportions, mainly because of the Bob Dylan song. But also because of Pancho Villa and the many westerns that have been shot here.

Despite the unrealistically high expectations, the town didn’t disappoint at all. The stunning road leading to Durango already took our breath away and the town itself was steeped knee deep in history and good old Mexican revolutionary bravura and banditry. And to top it off: it was November 20th and thus the town was celebrating the start of the Mexican Revolution. It was LOUD.

But now we are on our own again and back to a bowl of yoghurt with a sliced banana for dinner instead of succulent espada (swordfish) or spicy camarones or a zingy ceviche delicately prepared “con amor” the Karen/Simon way. 

This Friday, we continue our journey towards the Sea of Cortez. Here In Mexico covid 19 seems to be a calamity of the past and all regions except for Baja California Norte proudly flash the safety color green. This also translates into a heightened tourist activity. We were so used to having the place to ourselves that it came as quite a shock when we were being denied a slip in the marinas of La Paz. Some of them or even fully booked up till March 2022. So, we had to divert to Topolobampo to find a safe place for O2 to rest. And that’s why we are gearing up now to sail twice across the Sea of Cortez in a matter of days: first going with the winds from Mazatlán via Altata up to La Paz and then using the same winds to sail across the Sea again from La Paz up to Topolobampo right into the slip. We dare hope for a considerable variety of marine life to accompany us both ways. Our binoculars are placed near the helm and ready for grabs.