¡Te calmas septiembre!

After a 7.1 earthquake in Acapulco on September 7th, a Popocatépetl hiccup on September 11th and the rainy season at its peak, the Mexicans urge the month of September to calm down already. 

I thank the rain gods for being a pluviophile. My Captain is more of a bright-sunshiny-day type of person. He can get slightly “salty” in all that freshwater wetness, and he readily fleeces up below 30 degrees Celsius. 

But I love to watch it build and then come down with a vengeance. Which is not always the case. Despite the rumbling and flashing right overhead, the rain itself often falls up in the mountains. Too bad really, because the sound of rain on our deck – whether it is a soft pattering or a steady pounding- is soul soothing.  

Apparently, love of rain is an ancient universal feeling dating back to the Stone Age when our ancestors felt safe in their caves during downpours. The sable tiger and the other predatory megafauna in their dens were also sheltering from the rain before being out on the prowl again. 

But my dancing-in-the- rain act has lost its luster because -as we all know – “guilty feet have got no rhythm”. A lot of Mexicans do not have a waterproof cocoon. Whereas ours is a cozy dry dome which simply rises with the flood, theirs is a low lying construction that gets quite easily inundated by that very same flood. Apparently, this is turning into a planetary problem, as well.

Downtown Vallarta, John Huston was blown from his pedestal.
But he remains firmly attached to his director seat, as he contemplates the havoc that Nora wreaked.

The colorful woven “sarapes” are hanging to dry. The vendors had to wash them clean from the mud which had entered their little shops during the flood.

So, let’s concentrate on the list of boat chores we have been ticking off. In between showers and steaming heat our outside dining table has been scrubbed clean twice (suds that came off it looked like liquid greenish seagull poop. It was quite disgusting) before receiving 2 layers of epoxy coating and 3 layers of varnish. It is now the welcoming centerpiece of our afterdeck, ready for our guests to arrive.

The industrial solar panel is still work in progress. It will be installed over the ship’s wheel by means of a sturdy stainless-steel contraption, designed by My Captain and it is being welded together by Salvador. This panel will add an extra 460 watt to our lithium batteries and sunshade to our helm. A Mexican sombrero “en guise de parasol” always comes in handy, but not at sea when the wind has a mind of its own.

It is because of that very same wind that we are now installing sturdy roller sunscreens on our afterdeck as well. When at anchor or docked in Marinas, we used to made do with clothes-pegs. More often than not, we had to jump-dive to the rescue whenever the wind took hold of our “ sunscreens”.

In between chores we made a trip to downtown Vallarta with its glorious Malecón and its down-to-earth backstreets.

Mango carved on a stick and sprinkled with “Tajin”= sauce made of mild chili peppers, lime and sea salt.
Another reason why we find the Mexicans to be so endearing.

On the way to Vallarta we checked out the other 2 marinas in Banderas Bay, just to make sure we weren’t missing out on something good. Marina Puerto Vallarta is a very commercial affair surrounded by touristy shops and caterers whose focus on us – though friendly and low key – made us feel like the gringos that we are.

Next stop was Marina Paradise Village. It is part of a fancy resort of the same name. The swimming pools are awesome and so is the Coconut Palm Drive that leads up to it. But the whole over-the-top set-up felt so tacky and fake that it immediately made us feel as depressed as the live tiger which was kept in a cage at the entrance.

Although the oysters looked good, we didn’t dare to taste them, what with all the river flooding contaminating the ocean.
The backstreets of Vallarta, where an old ambulance is turned into a (sail) fish transport vehicle.
A “pimped up” Beetle.


So yes, we are very happy to stay where we are, in Marina Riviera Nayarit with the quaint and authentic fishing village La Cruz de Huanacaxtle in our backyard. 

In between downpours, the sky is stark blue. And it is HOT.

La Cruz de Huanacaxtle is also one of the “Mural Cities” . ” Ciudad Mural” is a project of colectivotomate.org which brings local communities together in transforming their (poor) villages and towns through art and collaboration. We think it is a very cool initiative.

And now it is already mid September. Were it not for the flags and the online media, we would have been oblivious of Mexico’s Independence Day altogether. Covid is still putting a brake on “fiesta” time and the “Grito de Dolores” was rather subdued here in La Cruz.

Those were the days! When Roman Catholic priests still led the rebellion! On September 16th, 1810 at 11PM, priest Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla rang his church bell in the village of Dolores. This was the start of the rebellion against Spain. Hence the “Grito de Dolores”. Apparently, every year on the same day and time the president has to shout it out again from his balcony in Mexico City. Viva Mexico !

With O2 getting ship shape above the waterline, all we need now is a 5-day weather prediction free of Named Storms to be able to heed the call of the hinterland. Meaning that we are ready to hit the road.

4 comments on “¡Te calmas septiembre!”

  1. Jan Verschaeren says:

    Another very inspiring story!
    So new to me, revealing a world we hear nothing from…
    Thx for sharing:-)

    1. Viv says:

      Hey Jan, het is ook allemaal nieuw voor ons ook hoor. En door Covid blijven we nog altijd aan de oppervlakte krabben. Maar we hebben meer en meer respect voor de hardwerkende Mexicaan. En voor hun toffe manier van omgaan met elkaar. Hier in de haven zijn alle boot werkers en vissers echte compadres. En veel muziek uit hun radio’s!

  2. Lyssens Carine says:

    Die tafel… dat hebben jullie super gedaan 👍👍
    Zeilen is toch ook wel werken he, altijd wel iets te doen ! Komen jullie dan makkelijk aan gerief/onderdelen?
    Knap hoor❤️ Ik moet zeker niet zeggen dat jullie moeten genieten want dat doen jullie duidelijk .
    Keep safe xxx

    1. Viv says:

      Met een beetje uitzoekwerk is alle gerief voor handen. We zitten natuurlijk ook dicht bij grote buur Noord-Amerika wiens muur duidelijk niet voor de handel is bedoeld. Veel is hier in gespecialiseerde zaken of chandleries te verkrijgen en de kleinere zaken hebben veel gewoon gereedschap op stock. Altijd is er wel iets aan de boot te doen. Dat wel.

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