Are we there yet ?

A full moon, light winds, a calm ocean. As if in a dream. I love my night watches.

Saturday, March 23rd, 2024, 05: 40 PM

Pfff. Light wind coming from behind. Perfect conditions for our downwind sails. If only we could launch them. And we still can’t for lack of suspension. So, we keep on plodding on with the standard setup. Then suddenly, we catch ourselves a shiny small tuna, only to realize it is nothing but a skipjack. Immediately, I find the smell off-putting, and the meat alarmingly dark. When we search the internet for recipes, this is what we find: “either can it or serve it to your pet. “Neither of these options are within our reach.

The many negative comments we read are not to be misunderstood either, and I quote a few: “Tried Skippy and it was terrible I just about puked….” Or “Yeah, skippies are revolting. Eating them is a waste of good bait.” Or “Best skippy recipe. Cut your skippy fillets into chunks about 50 x 25 size. Put them onto your favourite rod and drop them into the sea at your favourite spot. Turn them into snapper and they will taste a whole lot better.”
What we gather from that online tirade is the existence of a third option: cut up the “dark, oily” filets in chunks and use it as bait for a higher quality catch. And that’s exactly what we will try out tomorrow. 

Poor little skipjack tuna. Beautiful fish, though. But very smelly.
We were very sorry about the foul smell.

Sunday, March 24th, 2024 07:00 AM

Freshly made pancakes for breakfast with eggs we brought with us from Ensenada already 26 days ago and which we kept out of the fridge all this time. We’d read about coating them in Vaseline to keep the tropical air from penetrating the protective shell and turning them every two to three days to prevent the yolk from sticking to the inside shell. So that is what we did, and it has worked amazingly well. After breakfast, My Captain baited the fishhook with some skipjack, yet we doubt that our slow boat to Hiva Oa will attract the attention of the swiftly moving predator fish we aim to catch.

We doubt it, but hey, let’s give it a try.

Sunday, March 24th, 2024, 02:05 PM

WE THOUGHT WRONG. ZZZZZZZ goes the line, until two thirds of it are gone into the ocean at a speed so high that the reel is too hot to handle, quite literally. When My Captain finally manages to stop it from unwinding, the fishing line quivers under tension like a guitar string that is about to snap. The fishing rod itself bends under the immense strain, not unlike My Captain. This lively reenactment of an episode out of The Old Man and the Sea plays out for an hour and forty minutes to be exact. Then, abruptly, the fish changes direction, the line vanishes beneath our keel and moments later, all tension is gone. When I see the despair in My Captain’s eye, I wisely retreat to my private quarters so to give him some space to process this major setback. Afterwards, he consoles himself with the fact that the fish would have been too big for us anyway. My main frustration is the realization that now we will never know what kind of sea monster got away.

Two thirds of the line zipped away in a matter of seconds.

Tuesday, March 26th, 2024, 04:45 PM

Are we there yet ? Yes we are ! And we are not the only ones, which is a bit of a shock after 27 days of deep blue solitude. And oh, the lush green of Atuona Bay, those soothing carpets and walls of green. Tonight, My Captain and I will close our eyes in sync for the first time in a month. Tomorrow we have a rendez-vous with the Gendarmerie. It all feels surreal and marvellous at the same time. We’ve made it to Hive Oa!

We have replaced our old electric breadmaking machine by an artisanal “Dutch oven”. The results are quite satisfactory. Yet, we do look forward to buying us some French baguettes.
Raising the French Polynesian courtesy flag.
Gazing in disbelief at lush green land. What a great landfall Hiva Oa is after 27 days at sea.
This is our anchor spot for the coming week. We love Hiva Oa already.

14 comments on “Are we there yet ?”

  1. Stefanie Schreyen says:

    Het is fantastisch hoe jullie ons lieten meeleven met jullie overtocht. Toch wel spannend af en toe! Maar ik ben er heel gerust in dat jullie Mac Gyvergewijs steeds alles opgelost krijgen 😁. Chapeau ! Ik hoop dat Luc zijn knie in orde is?
    Ik voelde ook een emotie van opluchting als er land in zocht was! Top gedaan en nu genieten 😇🙃
    Veel groetjes uit Gent en vrolijke paasdagen 🐣.
    Stefanie & Björn

    1. Luc says:

      Knie is alweer ok hoor. Was gewoon een angstig moment en wat kneuzingen. Ben sindsdien toch nog 4 keer naar de top van de mast gemoeten om het op te lossen. Maar we zijn er weer helemaal klaar voor.

  2. Sabine De Bock says:

    Fantastisch, weer spannend! 🙌👏☀️

    1. Viv says:

      En dat alles plots in het Frans is, voegt er nog wat charme aan toe. Zo staat op de gevel van een supermarkt:”gémir m’est pas de mise, aux Marquises. “ Ja, Brel leeft hier.

  3. Lucrece says:

    Pierre zegt dat het de mooiste eilanden. Genieten dus van de welverdiende rust.

    1. Viv says:

      Het is echt prachtig, de natuur maar zeker ook de mensen. We zijn net terug van de Gendarmerie waar ze heel blij waren Belgen te mogen verwelkomen. Alles is zo op mensenmaat.

  4. Jenny Clement says:

    It’s so lovely following your journeys! We have the same boat as you and currently have made it from Toronto to the Bahamas each winter (this is year two) and then have to return to Toronto to work. (yes, this is a four letter word!) So it’s very inspiring to watch your journeys and dream! Enjoy

    1. Viv says:

      Hi Jenny, before we retired from working, that’s exactly what we did: get the boat (a monohull) closer and closer to our jump off point which was Tenerife at the time. A lot of water has passed under the bridge since then. And Hiva Oa is delightful.

  5. Dag Viv en Luc, wat ben ik blij dat je op plaats van bestemming bent aangekomen! Ik héb gehuild van opluchting. Ik had een voorgevoel dat het niet zou goed gaan! Pasen vieren je dus op land! Een mooie plek waar jullie mouring is! Veel groen in tegenstelling met de hele tijd zee! Ik heb geen idee waar jullie zijn. Ik ga het eens proberen opzoeken!
    De politie was hier, ze hebben iemand op spoor. Op 4 april wordt er een reconstructie gedaan hier thuis.
    Op VTM wordt het uitgezonden! Verder ben ik nu wel genezen. Alleen mijn pink lijkt akelig en doet soms veel pijn.
    Ik wens jullie een mooi intermezzo en dan is het weer verder zeker! Vele groeten en liefs,❤️💕🫶💥👋👍🇧🇪🌷🍀

    1. Viv says:

      Hey Chris, dat is allemaal zeer goed nieuws dan. Zalige Pasen ook voor jou. Wij zijn hier net officieel ingeschreven en nog nooit is het zo vlot gegaan. Ze waren zeer content om nog es Belgen te kunnen verwelkomen.

  6. Nicole Meul says:

    Congrats,you ‘be made It!Et maintenant en français n’est-ce pas!Félicitations!👍😘Bonne fête de Pâques!🐣

    1. Viv says:

      Cela a en effet une ambiance très française, mais en même temps, c’est aussi très exotique. On comprend pourquoi Brel et Gauguin l’ont aimé ici.Bimbam de klokken maar de chocolade paaseieren zijn veranderd in warme chocomelk de moment dat je ze uit de frigo haalt.

  7. Jan Verschaeren says:

    Very nicely done👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼🍾

    1. Viv says:

      Bedankt Jan! En mooi dat het hier is! Het overtreft echt alle verwachtingen.

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