Whistling in the dark.

Who’s also whistling in the dark is the Kiwi bird. Before leaving New Zealand, we made one last attempt to spot one in the wild on Tiritiri island, a scientific reserve, to no avail. We did enjoy the walk through the bush to the lighthouse, though.
Waiting for the sun to go down.
The only live Kiwi birds we saw, were the ones in a dark house sanctuary where taking pictures was strictly forbidden. So, this is a picture of a picture from inside the dark house.

We’ve come full circle now, as far as Aotearoa New Zealand is concerned. Last October, we cleared in at Opua after arriving from Tonga. Weather permitting, we’ll clear out from Opua for Fiji on April 30th — which is also the expiry date of our six-month New Zealand visa.

In October last year, we started our New Zealand expedition with a visit to the Omata Estate in Opua. Today, April 26th, that’s also where we have said our goodbyes in the company of SV Aspro and SV Fidelis. Of course, My Captain also bought himself some Syrah 2021 on the way out.

The Brits and their Commonwealth friends have a habit of slapping silly nicknames onto the world’s mighty oceans. In true stiff-upper-lip fashion, an Atlantic crossing is merely a “puddle jump,” the vast Pacific is nothing more than a “pond,” and the wild waters separating Australia and New Zealand are reduced to “the ditch.” But this rather juvenile macho talk is in fact little more than whistling in the dark. No one knows better than these seafaring nations the dangers that lurk in the deep. It is less about bravado but rather an attempt to ward off the very catastrophes they fear—storms, hurricanes, cyclones, gales, rogue waves, and even collisions with whales. Like keeping the names of Voldemort or the devil unspoken for fear of summoning them, they hope to keep the great oceans in check by scaling them down through the use of these household nicknames.
Call it a puddle, a pond, or a ditch, and maybe—just maybe—the seas will behave.
But that’s not our way. We would never use words of disrespect for Moana Nui , aka the Great Pacific.

Autumn is bringing cold fronts, rain and even snow to New Zealand’s mountain tops. High time we went. But we are stuck in Port Opua.
The continuous heavy rainfall has washed the soil and organic matter into the waterways. It feels like being docked on a jungle river now.
Port Opua’s water is normally bright ocean blue. But not lately.

Although Voldemort-like entities do lurk down below and up above the waters of this world, the best you can do is to steer clear of them by timing your outings carefully and by always paying homage to Neptune, Poseidon, Kanaloa, Tangaroa, and the lot. All this to say—yes, we do feel nervous about the final passage of this sailing life aboard O2. This time we hope to reach the Fijian shores from Opua, New Zealand, in no more than 10 days, on a mild and benevolent Sea. The latter is highly unlikely.

This “red-faced” chart shows the wave action and height (over 6 meters). We’re not exactly inclined to hoist the sails in these conditions.

For the moment, we are stuck in Port Opua together with dozens of fellow sailors, analyzing the red-faced weather reports that scream at us to stay put. Or as our weather router, Chris Parker, warned us: “If you’re up for broad reach sailing with winds in the mid to upper 20s, gusting to GALE FORCE (mid-30s), and seas 10’ every 10 seconds for just about the entire trip, then this looks like a reasonable opportunity to depart. If you prefer milder conditions, then unfortunately we do not have visibility on when there will be a milder departure.” Damn!

So we paid another 250 euro to extend our New Zealand visa (an online challenge!) and we requested the marina for extra days in our berth. We keep our fingers crossed that we’ll be able to dock into Denarau, Fiji, still in time. After our experience in Hawaii with friends who had already bought their plane tickets to meet us while we still had an ocean to cross, we vowed never to sail on a schedule again. And yet, here we are. More and more, it looks like our son- who is flying in on May 16th – will be the one to catch our mooring lines when we finally arrive at Port Denarau. Whistling in the dark, indeed.

To keep our spirits up, we’ve got the Fiji flag close at hand, ready to hoist the moment we smell the coconuts again.

10 comments on “Whistling in the dark.”

  1. Frank Janssens says:

    Hello Viviane en Luc, als ik het goed begrijp zijn jullie toch vertrokken volgens Joost , natuurlijk we zijn een week verder maar neem toch geen te grote risico’s hé? Wat zullen we blij zijn wanneer jullue veiig op de Fidji zitten. Alweer een goede reden om een fles bubbles te ontkurken.

    1. Viv says:

      Bula Frank & Gart! Ja, we zijn vertrokken en op dit eigenste moment hangen we midden de oceaan te klutsen aan ons “zeeanker”, wachtend tot de storm hogerop overwaait. Momenteel hier 40 knopen, dus blij dat we op deze manier kunnen schuilen. Er zal een hele krat bubbels er aan moeten geloven eenmaal we zijn aangekomen. Van al onze passages is dit toch wel de strafste. Tot horens!

  2. Natascha Dirinck says:

    Hoi Viv, …wat ben je toch een begenadigd schrijfster ! Door de manier van schrijven, is het precies of je er zelf bij bent😉 wacht maar mooi af tot de waters jullie goed gezind zijn…net zoals jullie gasten in Hawai, zal ook Ramses er niet mee inzitten om desnoods een paar dagen alleen door te brengen bij de coconut. Stay safe! Goede overtocht! Grtz N

    1. Viv says:

      Wow, bedankt hoor Natascha, zowel voor het compliment als voor het hart onder de riem. Wat een scheepsmaatjes waren jullie toch, toen we aan 8 knopen naar Maui vlogen met alleen het voorzeil op. Wilde wateren, zeg dat wel!

  3. Nicole Meul says:

    Dit is toch een enorm avontuur.Geniet ervan!Dit is uniek!🤩Groetjes van ons hier!Nicole en familie

    1. Viv says:

      Gelukkig zijn er de bootburen die het samen wachten op goed weer wat gezellig houden. Maar we worden nu toch wat nerveus hoor.

  4. Isabelle en Geert says:

    Viviane en Luc good luck with weather and wind, safe travels and in between enjoy the time!

    1. Viv says:

      Dankjewel! We houden het hier in de gaten!

  5. claire says:

    Safe travels! xxx

    1. Viv says:

      Thanks Claire! We can use some best wishes at the moment.

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